A surfer’s wish this holiday season eh? ‘That’s easy’ you say with a Grinch-like grin! No, dear friends, it is not for a bigger quiver of surfboards or a surf break alone to myself every dawn session (although those things are quite desirable too!). Let’s take a pause from allContinue Reading

I have not been surfing for over three weeks now … and oddly, I have not gotten the usual “gotta get in the water” itch that would normally accompany such a stretch of dry living. Should I be worried??? Have I lost something magical? Lost the urge or drive toContinue Reading